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Winterizing your Orange Trees

Gardening Guide: Juicy Oranges

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Winterizing your Orange Trees

By Norann Oleson

Orange tree covered in winer snow

Orange tree covered in winer snow

Many varieties of orange tree are cold-hardy. Even so, they’re not crazy about cold weather. Some varieties are cold-hardy down to 20 degrees F, but even trees planted outdoors deserve a little TLC when the weather turns cold.

The first step is to have chosen an orange tree suited to your growing zone. The next step is to help your tree get ready for winter—if you’re in an area where the temperature can drop below freezing.

Here’s how to get your outdoor-planted orange trees ready for a potential freeze.

Final Harvest

Pick any ripe oranges still on the tree before the first frost. Clean up any leaf litter around the tree and remove dead wood. Don’t prune—save that for spring, after the last frost.

Water

Give your trees regular waterings. It’s easier for them to deal with freezing temperatures if they already have moist soil; moist soil will freeze, but it won’t hurt the roots. If there’s no rain, give young trees about an inch of water a week; older trees should get 1 to 2 inches of water a week.

Fertilize

Orange trees less than 2 years old should not get fertilizer over the winter. Fertilize older trees only if their foliage starts to lighten, using a fertilizer specifically formulated for citrus trees.

Wrap/Cover

Wrap your tree’s trunk with several layers of cardboard to provide an insulating barrier against frost. Wrap the trunk from just under the tree’s main limbs all the way to the ground. Secure the wrap with duct tape. You can also wrap the trunk with burlap or blankets, but be sure to check the wrap regularly for insect infestation. Keep this “sweater” on your tree’s trunk until the last frost has passed.

If you’re in an area prone to cold snaps, you can build a frame around the tree that you can cover with a tarp or plastic sheeting. Some garden centers also carry frost cloths that you can drape over your tree and leave on without harming the tree. However you cover your tree, make sure the cover reaches all the way to the ground so you’re holding in as much heat from the earth as possible and keeping out the cold air.

There are some products, such as CloudCover, that you can use to spray your tree’s leaves to protect it from cold. It creates a thin film that insulates the leaves but still lets the tree breathe. Ask your local extension center or garden center for recommendations for the best way to protect your planted orange trees.

If you live in an area where the temperature drops below freezing for an extended time, you might want to consider growing your orange tree in a container, so you can bring it indoors when the weather turns cold.

Container Trees

For orange trees growing in containers, you can phase them into being totally indoors over the course of a month before the first expected frost.

For two weeks, leave your tree in full sunlight in the morning and move it into the shade for the afternoon. For the next two weeks, leave it in the shade all day.

Before you bring your potted tree into the house for the winter, you want to debug it. Get out the garden hose in the morning and give your tree a full blasting of water from the top to the base of the trunk. Let it dry naturally, then spray the tree with insecticidal soap to catch any insects that may have avoided the hose. You don’t want to bring aphids or scale into the house if you can help it.

Put your tree in a bright, sunny, draft-free area of your home. Your tree will be happiest with at least eight hours of bright sunlight a day, and a temperature between 55 and 68 degrees F. A partially heated sunroom or a bright south-facing window would be ideal.

Water your tree when the top 2 to 3 inches of the soil become dry; you want to keep the root ball from drying out. You can also mist the foliage of your orange tree.

It is best to fertilize your orange trees primarily during the growing season, but you can use a balanced liquid fertilizer that contains micronutrients once every three months during dormant periods.

To prevent pest infestations, wash your tree’s leaves every week. Use a soft, damp cloth to remove dust and any pests that sneak in. If necessary, apply insecticidal soap.

Wait until after the last frost in your area before you prune your container tree. Cut out any dead wood and any branches that are rubbing each other. Prune enough to open the middle of the tree to sunlight and better airflow.

When the weather is good enough to set your tree outside again, reverse the acclimation process—but bring your tree back inside at night for the first week.

Have you successfully overwintered your orange trees? Please share your tips with us.

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fertilizer, garden hose, liquid fertilizer

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

  • Curator’s Corner
  • Introduction
  • Growing Zones for Oranges
  • Types of Oranges
  • Growing Oranges from Seeds, Cuttings, or Saplings
  • Soil and Sun Requirements for Growing Orange Trees
  • Planting Orange Trees in the Ground
  • Growing Orange Trees in Containers
  • Watering, Weeding, Pruning and Fertilizing your Orange Trees
  • Harvesting your Oranges
  • Preserving Your Oranges
  • Winterizing your Orange Trees
  • Dealing with Orange Diseases
  • Dealing with Orange Tree Pests
  • Essential Tools and Equipment for Growing and Enjoying Oranges
  • How to Grow an Orange Tree in Your Yard
  • Plant Profiles

  • Bergamot Orange Tree
  • Seville Sour Orange Tree
  • Sanguinelli Blood Orange Tree
  • Moro Blood Orange Tree
  • Midknight Valencia Sweet Semi-Dwarf Orange Tree
  • Valencia Orange Tree
  • Robertson Navel Orange Tree
  • Washington Navel Orange Tree
  • Recipes

  • Baked Orange Chicken Breast
  • Orange Scones
  • Fresh Orange Freeze Pops
  • Candied Orange Peel
  • Orange Marmalade
  • Additional Articles

  • Nutrition Facts about Oranges
  • Health Benefits and Home Remedies of Oranges
  • Resources about Oranges
  • Orange Glossary
  • Related Articles

  • Orange You Glad You Have Too Many Oranges?

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