Read by Michael Flamel

The Herb That Stole My Lobster-Loving Heart

As a devoted New Englander on a never-ending quest for the ultimate lobster roll, I’ve long debated the virtues of butter versus mayonnaise. Let me put it plainly: I am—and always will be—a butter enthusiast. There’s something about warm, golden butter cascading over fresh lobster meat that feels like the very essence of a perfect Summer afternoon by the shore.

That’s why, when I stumbled across a variation of the lobster roll that called for emulsified butter infused with tarragon, chives, and parsley, I knew I had to try it. The result? Nothing short of thrilling. Tarragon, with its subtle anise-like aroma, added an unexpected depth to the buttery sweetness of the lobster, creating a combination so delightful that it instantly earned a spot on my (admittedly long) list of favorite lobster rolls.

But here’s the thing about tarragon: before that fateful bite, I had never given it much thought. It wasn’t a staple in my herb garden, nor did it frequently make its way into my cooking. But after that experience, I knew I needed to grow it myself—and that’s where the real adventure began.

A Brief (and Delicious) History of Tarragon

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) has traveled the world, weaving its way into the culinary traditions of France, Russia, Asia, and beyond. Believed to have originated in Central Asia and Siberia, it was used medicinally long before it became a favorite in the kitchen. The name dracunculus, meaning “little dragon,” hints at its serpentine roots, which were once thought to cure venomous bites.

Tarragon’s culinary fame, however, is largely thanks to the French, who embraced it as a key ingredient in fines herbes, a classic blend also featuring parsley, chives, and chervil. French cuisine wouldn’t be the same without it—think béarnaise sauce, tarragon chicken, and delicate herb-infused butter sauces.

But the herb’s influence isn’t limited to France. Russian tarragon is popular in Central Asian cooking, and even in America, it has quietly made its way into mustards, vinegars, and, as I joyfully discovered, the lobster roll.

Varieties of Tarragon: Choosing the Right One for Your Garden

Not all tarragon is created equal. If you’re considering adding it to your herb garden, here’s what you need to know:

1. French Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa) – The gold standard for culinary use, this variety boasts a strong anise-like aroma and a smooth, refined flavor. However, it does not produce viable seeds, so it must be propagated via cuttings or root divisions.
2. Russian Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculoides) – A more robust, hardy plant with slightly less flavor complexity. While it grows easily from seed, its taste is more muted, sometimes described as bitter or grassy compared to its French counterpart.
3. Mexican Tarragon (Tagetes lucida) – A relative of marigolds, this variety is more floral and spicier, sometimes used as a substitute for French tarragon in warmer climates where true tarragon struggles.

For the best lobster roll experience (or any fine cooking), French tarragon is the way to go.

Growing Your Own Tarragon: An Herb Gardener’s Guide

If you’ve ever struggled to grow cilantro (believe me, I have), take comfort in knowing that tarragon is much more forgiving. Here’s what you need to know:

• Sunlight: Tarragon thrives in full sun but can tolerate partial shade.
• Soil: Well-draining soil is essential—this herb dislikes wet feet!
• Watering: Moderate watering is best. Too much moisture can cause root rot.
• Propagation: Since French tarragon doesn’t produce viable seeds, start with a cutting or purchase a young plant.
• Harvesting: Pick leaves regularly to encourage new growth. Fresh tarragon is at its most potent in Spring and Summer.

If you grow it in a container, bring it indoors during Winter for year-round access to fresh tarragon.

How to Use Tarragon in the Kitchen

While it may have won my heart through a lobster roll, tarragon is a versatile herb that deserves a permanent place in any home cook’s arsenal. Try it in:

• Butter-Based Sauces: Perfect for seafood, chicken, or roasted vegetables.
• Salad Dressings & Vinegars: Tarragon vinegar adds brightness to vinaigrettes.
• Egg Dishes: Elevates scrambled eggs or omelets beautifully.
• Soups & Stews: Adds complexity to creamy bisques and broths.
• Homemade Mustards & Pickles: Gives condiments a subtle, refined flavor.

Fun Facts About Tarragon

• Tarragon is a key ingredient in Béarnaise sauce, often served with steak.
• In medieval Europe, it was used to ward off fatigue and digest rich foods.
• In Russia, tarragon was traditionally used in a bright green soda called Tarkhun.
• The French call it “the king of herbs” because of its importance in their cuisine.

The Ultimate Butter-Tarragon Lobster Roll Recipe

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Variation of the lobster roll that called for emulsified butter infused with tarragon, chives, and parsley,

• Author: DON NICHOLAS

Ingredients

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• 1 pound fresh cooked lobster meat (claw and knuckle preferred)
• 6 tbsp. unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp. fresh tarragon, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp. fresh chives, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped
• 1 tsp. lemon juice
• 4 New England-style split-top brioche rolls
• Salt and pepper, to taste

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Instructions

1. Melt the Butter: In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Stir in the chopped tarragon, chives, and parsley. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and a pinch of salt and pepper.
2. Warm the Lobster Meat: Add the lobster meat to the butter and gently warm it over low heat for 2-3 minutes, allowing it to absorb the herb-infused butter.
3. Toast the Rolls: Lightly butter the inside of the split-top brioche rolls and toast them in a pan until golden brown.
4. Assemble: Divide the lobster mixture evenly among the toasted rolls, spooning any extra butter over the top.
5. Serve Immediately: Enjoy with a side of crispy fries, a glass of white wine, or a cold craft beer.

More New England Favorites

If this lobster roll has sparked your appetite, check out our New England Recipe Collection, featuring another classic lobster roll recipe alongside Summer slaw, Cape Cod potato chips, and other regional delights.

So go ahead—grow some tarragon, melt some butter, and indulge in what might just become your ultimate lobster roll! ❖